Volcan de Santa Ana, known locally as Volcan Ilamtepec, is the highest volcano in El Salvador, at 7,811 feet (2,391 meters). One of the most popular activities in the country is hiking to the crater's rim and looking down into the volcano's steaming sulfur lake, and that's what we hoped to do today.
We made the short drive to Casa de Cristal Mountain Park, arriving just before 9:00 a.m. Casa de Cristal is a private campground and the closest place to park to start the hike up Volcan de Santa Ana. It cost $1.75 per person to enter onto the property, plus $1.75 for the vehicle.
Fun with topiaries at Casa de Cristal Mountain Park
Even though the trail up Santa Ana is straightforward, a guide for the hike is mandatory. Since we didn't want to go with a big group, we'd planned to pay the full $35 fee to hire our own guide. But when we arrived, we met up with a couple of guys from Houston with a similar leisurely attitude toward the hike, so we agreed to go together and split the fee four ways. As a bonus, one of the guys was bilingual and acted as translator for our small group. Much appreciated!
Volcano that-a-way
Our guide had warned us that because of the wind and clouds today, we probably wouldn't be able to ascend all the way to the crater, but we decided to proceed anyway and go as far as the national park service would allow. The issue is that the wind sends volcanic dust into the air that can cause eye injuries, and heavy clouds may lead to poor footing on the steepest final portion of the trail.
Our guide, Jose, on a cloudy day
Scenic ruin
Jose led us the short distance from Casa de Cristal to the entrance of Cerro Verde National Park, where we then paid an entry fee for the park of $3 each – all of us except for Tom, that is, who got in free because he's over 60. That milestone birthday occurred three days ago, and the perks have already started rolling in! Tom and I also rented hiking sticks for 50 cents each. I didn't really need one, but I couldn't pass up such a bargain!
Jana pays to enter the park
Volcans Santa Ana, Cerro Verde, and Izalco (and a mangy squirrel)
The trail up Volcan de Santa Ana has two major waypoints before the rim, a lookout tower near the beginning of the trail and a mirador just above the treeline. We enjoyed hiking through the beautiful, lush flora, with all the tropical plants and flowers, but sadly, the view was obscured by clouds, and the park service turned us around at the upper mirador, deeming it unsafe to continue to the rim today. It was a bummer we didn't get to continue to the top, but I could see their point. The wind was calm in the trees but whipped fiercely in the clearings, and the blowing dust was a menace!
Lookout tower
Our guide and hiking companions
Sendero al Crater
Happily, as we made our way back down the trail, the wind parted the clouds, revealing a fantastic view of Volcan de Izalco and Lago de Coatepeque! I took way too many photos from the trail, then climbed the lookout tower when we reached it again and took even more. So despite not reaching the rim and looking down into the steaming crater lake, the hike turned out to be a great success!
Jana and Tom with Volcan de Izalco
Volcans Cerro Verde and Izalco
Lago de Coatepeque from Volcan Santa Ana
We returned to Casa de Cristal having hiked a little over 3 ½ miles. The hike started at about 6,000 feet, and we'd gained about 1,000 more before having to turn around.
Casa de Cristal Mountain Park is a campground with a cafe, lots of fun topiaries, and its own incredible view of Izalco. We checked the place out before we left but were soon driven away by the strong wind and flying dust.
Back at Casa de Cristal
Volcan de Izalco from Casa de Cristal
In the afternoon, we took a scenic drive to see more of Lago de Coatapeque. The road winds around the rim of the volcanic caldera that contains the lake, with a steep dropoff on each side of the road. This makes parking a big issue at the roadside businesses and viewpoints, and it was hard to stop to admire the views.
Eventually, we stumbled upon Restaurante Vista Lago, which, as you might imagine, offered an amazing lake view. As a bonus, the food was really good as well. The restaurant was part of Finca Los Pinos coffee farm, and after lunch, we walked its garden pathways to some wonderful overlooks. What a find!
Lunchtime
Lunch
Finca Los Pinos pathway
Mirador Linda Vista
Lago de Coatepeque
We then drove down to lake level for a closer look, but all the lakeside property seemed to be privately owned, with the views blocked by walls and fences, so we eventually gave up and turned around. Besides, nothing beats the lake view from our hotel!
Sunset is around 5:30, and it's dangerous to drive around on the unfamiliar and unpredictable roads after dark, so it was another early night for us. The wind was absolutely roaring, so we were happy enough to be inside and out of it. We had a light dinner at the hotel restaurant before retreating to our room for the night.