Thursday, November 20, 2025
North island road trip

There's a lot of nice scenery on the north end of the Big Island, but we didn't book any nights up there, so that led to today's big north island road trip! Let's get started...

Heading northwest along the Hamakua Coast, we made a short stop at an overlook on our way out of town to look back toward Hilo before continuing on to Laupahoehoe Point Beach Park, where we climbed around on the jagged volcanic rock and watched the rough waves crashing onto shore. A little later, we stopped in at the Honoka'a Heritage Center to learn about the history of the sugar plantations on the Big Island.

Overlooking Hilo

Laupahoehoe Point

Site of a devastating tsunami in 1946

History of the sugar plantations

Kohala Volcano, which makes up the northernmost part of the Island of Hawaii, is the oldest of the five volcanoes that form the island. Over 200,000 years ago, a massive landslide removed the volcano's northeast flank, forming amazing sea cliffs and seven spectacular valleys. Non-locals can't enter the Waipi'o Valley without a tour, but the view from the lookout is amazing!

Above the Waipi'o Valley

Waipi'o Valley, mountainous Maui in the distance

Unbelievable beauty

Next, we drove through Waimea on our way to Pu'ukohola Heiau National Historic Site on the west coast, site of a human sacrifice temple built in 1790 by King Kamehameha the Great. Signs along a half-mile loop pointed offshore to the location of a submerged temple to the shark gods. Finally, water calm enough for us to enter, and it's infested with sharks!

History of the beginning of the Hawaiian Kingdom

Mailekini and Pu'ukohola Heiaus (temples)

Lele (offering tower)

Location of Hale o Kapuni Heiau, a submerged temple to the shark gods

Heading north along the Kohala Coast, we stopped at a scenic lookout just outside a gated community. A ten-minute walk led to a clifftop area with amazing views of the ocean and the neighborhood next door. I wonder how much those houses cost...

Nice neighborhood

Quite a view

Pololu Valley is another of Kohala's seven spectacular valleys, and this one you're allowed to hike down into. It's only a mile round trip, with a 450-foot elevation change, but apparently rescuers have had to be dispatched enough times that now rangers brief each hiker before they descend to warn them to be prepared. The trail was steep, but WOW the views! One of the highlights of our trip.

Above Pololu Valley

Best view on the Big Island!

Jana and Tom on the Pololu Valley Trail

We returned to Hilo via the scenic Kohala Mountain Road and Saddle Road. The views were awesome in the late afternoon light. Most of our return on the Saddle Road was in the dark and felt quite dangerous, but I got behind a couple of box trucks and followed them back to civilization without incident. Our epic road trip today was a little over 200 miles.

Along Kohala Mountain Road

Mauna Kea

Dinner: Ola Brew in Hilo. The beer and food were good, but the portions were tiny compared to the price, and I left still hungry. Grrrr...

Last stop, Ola Brew

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