The summit of Mauna Kea, at an impressive 13,796 feet, is the highest point in Hawaii. If measured from its base, deep in the ocean (admittedly an unusual way to measure a mountain), Mauna Kea is actually the highest mountain on earth – yes, higher than Everest – a whopping 33,476 feet. Today is summit day!
From Volcano Village, we had to drive to Hilo before continuing on the Saddle Road to the turnoff for Mauna Kea. The sky was clear enough that we could see the observatories at the top of the mountain all the way from Hilo. We stopped along the Saddle Road to hike the half-mile Kaulana Manu Nature Trail, hoping to get a clear photo of the summit, but unfortunately the clouds chose just that moment to obscure our view.
Mauna Kea from the Kaulana Manu Nature Trail
The Mauna Kea Access Road is a steep, winding road leading from the Saddle Road to the observatories at the top of the mountain. After seven miles, you reach the Visitor Information Station at 9,200 feet, after which the road turns to gravel and is considered treacherous for the final eight miles. To proceed beyond the VIS, a 4WD vehicle is required as well as at least half a tank of gas. Alternatively, you can hike up from the VIS (LOL) or take a guided tour (not us!)
Visitor Information Station, 9,200 feet
A few of the warnings
A few of the rules
You're supposed to wait at the VIS for at least half an hour to acclimatize before heading further up the mountain. Tom and I stayed for well over an hour, using the time to take a short, rewarding hike up a nearby hill for some killer views.
Looking down on the VIS
Hiking at cloud height
Mauna Loa from Mauna Kea
Mauna Kea is Hawaiian for “White Mountain,” presumably due to the fact that its summit is regularly blanketed in snow, especially in December and January. When there's snow on the mountain, the road closes, which would really foil our plans. Originally, we'd planned our summit bid for later in the week, but with snow in the forecast, we'd moved it up to today. After a briefing by a ranger at the VIS checkpoint, we headed on up. Jana drove, while Tom concentrated on breathing the thin air.
Mauna Kea Access Road
High on Mauna Kea
The unpaved portion of the road was well graded, and the drive wasn't difficult or frightening at all. The scariest part was watching the fuel efficiency of the Jeep drop down to five miles per gallon on the way up. Ouch! We were shocked when we arrived at the top that we had the summit pretty much to ourselves – our 36th state high point! Woohoo!
Highest point in Hawaii, 13,796 feet
Tom at the top
Panorama Jana
Tom and Jana's 36th state high point!
High altitude, dry atmosphere, and lack of pollution equal visual clarity on the mountain's summit. There's no better stargazing on earth. The Mauna Kea Observatories are home to 13 large telescopes operated by 11 countries. Earlier in her career, Tom's cousin Kelly came here frequently to take scientific observations for NASA, and she's actually going to be on the island later this week. We hope to meet up.
Above the clouds
NASA Infrared Telescope Facility
Mauna Kea Observatories
W.M. Keck Observatory telescope
The views from the top of Mauna Kea were incredible, and it was hard to tear ourselves away, but after 45 minutes in the rarefied air, it was time to get down. We returned to the Saddle Road around 4:00, with enough time to make the drive back to Volcano Village by dark. What a day!
On top of the world!
Otherworldly
Dinner: Thai Thai Bistro & Bar in Volcano Village. The food was good, the service was fast, and by Hawaii standards, it was even a good value!